Автор: tantris
Дата: 28-12-10 15:41
Малко инфо от чичко Кен:
Battery Calibration
Summary: If you see a blinking CALIBRATE light on your charger, and if you have 12 hours, hold the CALIBRATE button for a second and let it calibrate and recharge. It's completely automatic, so just leave it alone and it will take care of itself. If you see the light blink and don't have the time, forget about it and do it the next time it's handy.
The Nikon D3 battery, like most Li-ion packs, has a device which counts every electron coming or going into the battery This is how it knows the charge state to a percent.
So long as you run it down to 0% and charge it completely now and then, this little electron counter knows exactly how much the battery can hold, so it always knows the exact state of charge.
As the battery wears, its capacity drops. If you don't ever run the battery all the way down, the counter can't possibly know the total capacity of the battery anymore.
Therefore, especially if you're like me and always charge the battery whenever it drops to around 80% or so, you may see the CALIBRATION light blink on your charger when you slide in the battery (or see "cal" appear in the D3's Battery Info menu).
This means the electron counter no longer feels confident that it accurately knows exactly how many electrons the battery can hold. If you press the CALIBRATION button on the charger, the charger will run the battery completely dead and recharge it, letting the electron counter know exactly the capacity of the battery, and thus calibrating the battery's charge gauge.
This calibration is completely unrelated to the annoying Refresh button on the old D1 charger. It does the same thing to the battery, but for an entirely different reason.
The capacity and life of the D3 battery has nothing to do with the calibration. All calibration does is ensure the charge meter is accurate.
If you don't calibrate when asked, you may have less capacity than the gauge suggests, meaning you just might have the battery go dead on you a little sooner than the gauge suggests. That would be bad if you regularly shoot your batteries dead, since they'd die on you sooner than you think.
After 21,000 shots over three months, I first saw the Calibrate light blink on my charger.
When I hit CALIBRATE at 10PM one night, it took ten hours, until 8AM the next morning, to complete its calibration. You'll see the lights indicate the minimum time left for calibration, in other words, if the 4 hr light is lit, that means you're into it for at least 4 hours, but not 6.
After calibration runs down, you have a dead battery. It now takes another couple of hours to charge the battery again, during which time the CAL ON light is off.
You may safely ignore the blinking CALIBRATION light. After 10 seconds, the charger will charge your battery normally. If you see CALIBRATION at an inconvenient time, just do it the next time you have at least 12 hours to let the battery do its thing.
If your battery is almost dead, since calibration is really just running the battery down, it won't take long. If your battery is almost full, it took 10 hours for mine to calibrate, and two more to recharge for a total of twelve hours.
My battery needed calibration because I'd never run it all the way down, so its electron counter was no longer confident of exactly dead was.
The charger can only charge or calibrate one battery at a time. It is smart enough to start the second, in either slot, whenever it's done with the first.
Li-ion batteries give the greatest number of total shots over their service lives if you charge them early and don't run them all the way down each time. See also How to Get Great Battery Life.
http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d3/performance-pre.htm
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